Peeling results when wet wood fibers swell and move under paint, causing the paint film to loosen, crack, and sometimes fall off . There are several ways for water to reach painted wood:

•           Uncaulked joints allowing moisture to seep into adjoining wood surfaces

•           Worn-out caulking

•           Ice-filled or trash-choked gutters, causing moisture buildup under the shingles

•           Moisture-laden air trapped between interior and exterior walls (discussed later)

•           Damp basements

•           Painting boards that are too close to bare ground

•           Vegetation giving off moisture too close to the wood

•           Leaking roofs

•           Painting over wood damp with rain or dew

§          Power washing

•           Water leaks from household plumbing (either existing or a past leak that has been repaired)

Two common places where moisture enters the wood of a house are between the porch slab and the house foundation and through leaks in the roof. Sources of moisture may also be inside the home, as discussed later in the module. As new homes are built more tightly, the higher inside humidity concentrates in areas where it can still escape to the outside. Check for proper sealing and caulking of woodwork on the inside of the house.

Solution

The first step is to eliminate the source of moisture. Carefully inspect the outside of the building, paying special attention to window and trim areas and other joints. Remove loose or cracked caulking and repair with a quality product. You may need to install vents to relieve moisture, especially in the kitchen, bathroom, and laundry areas. Attic louvers, exhaust fans, and dehumidifiers are also helpful and should be used regularly year-round. A good rule is to provide one square inch of attic louver per each square foot of attic floor in the house. Ask the owner about any plumbing problems and have these corrected before proceeding with painting.

Power washing basically injects water into wood. It is particularly harsh on bare wood. One of the most common reasons for moisture in wood after power washing is allowing insufficient drying time. Let the wood dry for three to five days before recoating.

If moisture is rising from the ground through the masonry, waterproof the foundation with a specially-designed coating. If wood is touching the ground, remove that portion of the wood. Siding should come down no further than six inches above the ground.

Check the roof for signs of leakage and clean out gutters and downspouts.  If you suspect vegetation is a cause of peeling, trim it away from the siding.  If you can’t eliminate the source of moisture, try repainting the stripped wood with a thin coat of latex paint, which is more porous than oil or alkyd coatings.  A water repellent solution can also be applied to exposed wood.

Remove all loose paint with a scraper or wire brush, down to the bare wood, if necessary.  Sand rough surfaces.  Seal all bare wood with a primer and allow it to dry for one or two days before applying the topcoat. 

Use two coats of topcoat, which doubles the life of the paint.  High quality acrylic latex or alkyd exterior paints are available in a wide variety of sheens.  The right product for your application is generally determined by the environment in which the coating will have to perform.

Peeling from moisture on siding can be corrected by inserting small plastic or aluminum wedges or shims under eash board where it is nailed.  Insert between the nail heads.

This article prepared by Rick Anderson of 604-PAINTER call: 604-PAINTER in the Vancouver area for all your painting needs.

Boxing: Boxing is the process of pouring paint back and forth from one pail to another t achieve uniform consistency after the paint has first been thoroughly mixed by stirring.

Cutting in: Painting corners and the perimeter of windows and doors with a brush or trir roller before roller application of paint to the walls or ceiling. Also used when painting clean edge, such as needed on a window sash.

Feathering: Tapering off the edges of a coat of paint by gradually pulling the bristles c the brush off the painted surface.

Fingering: A condition in which the bristles of a brush bunch together and do not retur: to their natural position. It can result from breaking in the brush improperly, allowing pain to harden in the heel, or painting with the edge rather than the flat surface of the brusE

Flag: The end of a brush bristle which divides into two or more branches. Flagging give the brush the ability to hold paint.

Keeping a wet edge: The process of working from an unpainted area into a previousl: painted, still-wet area.

Laying off: Going over an entire section of a wall or other surface while the paint is stil wet with light, quick strokes in one direction in order to smooth brush marks, laps, and joints and to cover any thin or missed spots.

Stippling: A decorative finish made by using a stippling brush or roller to apply paint ii a random pattern to a surface with a base coat of a different color.

A professional paint job depends on the selection of the correct paint, proper preparatioi of the surface before painting, and applying the paint with skill in a prescribed manner The focus of this module is on the application of paint using brushes and/or rollers. Thl different kinds of brushes and rollers are described, including their uses and maintenance Also covered are the proper methods for using brushes and rollers to apply paint.

BRUSHES

All paint brushes consist of bristles, a heel, a ferrule, and a handle (Figure 1). The portioi of the bristles nearest the ferrule is called the butt end; the lower part of the brush is it heel; and the tip of the brush is called the flag end. The bristles of the brush are held ii position at the lower end of the ferrule by an epoxy adhesive. Normally, the bristles are separated by wooden or aluminum spacer plugs. These spacer plugs provide support for th, bristles and help keep them from fanning out when paint is applied.

Rick Anderson

www.604painters.com

Painters painting in Vancouver  Call: 604-painter

Welcome to our new and exciting official blog for 604-PAINTER, Vancouver’s top painting contractors for the lower mainland.

Please come back soon for some updates from the best painters painting Vancouver!